Flapper Wheel for the Finish

This Scotch-Brite wheel has been cupped from use, making finishing wider parts more difficult. At least it isn’t grooved (yet) from deburring the edges of thin sheet metal. Maybe the threatening note helps.

Among the tools Sonex recommended when I started building my Sonex was a stand-mounted motor fitted with a Scotch-Brite wheel. Its purpose was for deburring the edges of the many parts that make up an all-aluminum airplane. I bought both and quickly regretted it. I sold both and replaced them with simple, low-cost flapper wheels, and I’ll tell you why in a moment.

The motor buffer was heavy to move and required floor space; not only the floor space it physically occupied, but floor space in front and behind, so parts could be introduced to the wheel without interference. Feeding the cut edge of long extrusions was difficult. Cleaning up the edge of thin sheet metal required care so the wheel wouldn’t get grooved or cupped. The wheel’s aggressive cut meant caution was needed on thin parts, to keep from removing too much material. Lastly, the Scotch-Brite wheel’s narrow width and proximity to the bulky motor prohibited its use for cleaning up wide surfaces.

The rough, band-saw-cut edge of this extrusion (left) was dressed with a vixen file (center) and finished with a flapper wheel (right).

My solution was to switch to Scotch-Brite flapper wheels chucked in an electric drill—that is, until they went from $5 each to north of $65 each. Sorry, my budget for abrasive finishing tools isn’t that big. I found Ace Hardware stores carry a suitable substitute, for $11, and stocked up.

Left: Genuine Scotch-Brite flapper wheels are pricey. My current go-to is this 2 1/2-inch, aluminum-oxide blend, 120-grit flap disc from Ace Hardware. Middle and right: A drill-mounted flapper wheel is extremely portable and versatile. Here the edge of an airframe skin is being finished. Some words of caution: The spinning wheel tends to blow dust and debris at the user. You’ll want to wear safety glasses for sure, and I strongly recommend a dust mask. I hate to think of what the aluminum recycling value of my lungs may be, though I’ve yet to light up a TSA body scanner.

Flapper wheels chucked in a drill will go anywhere I need them to. They are long lasting and can clean up thin edges as well as wide surfaces. They also ease the corner of parts a bit, whereas Scotch-Brite wheels left a crisp (sharp) edge, which is not to my liking. Although I took advantage of access to a Scotch-Brite wheel while working at Sonex, my preference for my shop, and even for the final finish on parts cleaned up with a Scotch-Brite wheel, is the flapper wheel.

Left: Wide surfaces are easily dressed using a flapper wheel. Here I’m cleaning up the landing gear for an Onex before polishing it. Right: Although it didn’t photograph well, a portion of this extrusion has been cleaned up with a flapper wheel to reduce the ridges created by the extrusion process.

Kerry Fores
Kerry Foreshttps://kerryfores.substack.com/
Kerry Fores built an award-winning Sonex he polished and affectionately named “Metal Illness.” Fores, a freelance writer whose Building Time column appeared for seven years in KITPLANES magazine, is retired from a 20-year career supporting Sonex builders. He is establishing an online presence at kerryfores.substack.com

SIGN UP FOR OUR NEWSLETTER

Latest
Related

4 COMMENTS

Subscribe to this comment thread
Notify of
guest
4 Comments
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
KWK
KWK
27 days ago

I seem to recall the FAA recommending 400 grit aluminum oxide when finishing aluminum. That’s what I’ve been using, although that flapper would speed up removing the worst of the roughness.

Shary
Shary
27 days ago

Might save even more money by using Dremel flapper wheels (on a Dremel tool vs drill) — come in multiple grades and work GREAT!!!

Ralph Inkster
Ralph Inkster
26 days ago

Scotch-Brite wheel mounted on a bench grinder is my primary tool for deburring aluminum sheets & smaller parts, if done carefully even large wing skin sizes can be done this way. Always present the sheet edge at an angle to the Scotch-Brite wheel to avoid cutting a groove in the wheel preserving the wheel & not creating snags. Two cautions, always approach corners at angles that will not catch the wheel, saves both the wheel & part from damage. Second caution, securely clamp any piece you are deburring if you use a drill mounted wheel preventing a potentially very nasty cut if the wheel snags in any way.

Dan DeFord
26 days ago

I use a generic scotch brite wheel that is reasonably priced for extruded parts:
https://a.co/d/0fgyG91i

And 600 grit wet/dry sanding pads for edges and left over burrs that my deburring tool doesn’t get on up-drilled rivet holes:
https://a.co/d/01HZ90a9