Building a Cowl Blister

That burn spot shows where the cowling was hitting the exhaust during test runs on the ground.

Our F1 Rocket project is now in paint, and when I removed the cowl after a few engine runs in preparation for the paint job, I noticed a bad sign—a small burn spot on the lower cowl, clearly from the exhaust. Sure enough, the exhaust system ball joint had remnants of fiberglass on the lower edge, and there was no way to move it relative to the cowl—so the cowl needs a blister. Blisters are annoying but easy to explain at fly-ins and shows … “Yes, that is creating space for the Turbo-Encabulator that adds 20 hp when engaged … “

The blister was modeled with clay on top of packing tape on the outside of the cowl and then covered with three layers of glass and resin. The square shape was just to make sure there was enough overlap to cut flanges.

Building a blister isn’t all that hard once you reconcile yourself to the task. In this case, the blister was going to be centered in a “valley” of the lower cowling, so I couldn’t just mold one on the workbench on a flat surface. So I taped off the area with packing tape (to keep the fiberglass resin from sticking) and then drew a nice aerodynamic shape on the cowl. I then pulled out the modeling clay and transformed the outline into a pleasing low-drag blister. Next, I pulled out some scraps of fiberglass cloth, wetted them out, and built the blister directly on the clay and tape. A drop light underneath the cowl promoted quick curing—we are, after all, in the middle of paint, and time was of the essence.

Left: The cured blister with the flange cut to shape. Note the two holes for Clecos—these hold it in final position for gluing using resin and flox. Right: Thick micro finished off the final layup, and the result was sanded to a smooth shape.
The final blister is highlighted in a black “guide coat” for final sanding before paint.

With the layup cured, I popped it off, removed the clay and tape, and shaped the edges of the blister to a nice thin taper. I cut a hole in the cowl (from the inside) to match the blister’s inside dimension. If I had more time, I would have dropped the blister into the hole from the inside and left the flange to settle into a scarf carved in there, but I had molded it to fit the outside, and I was working quickly. I mixed up some resin and flox to glue it in place and filled the joint inside and out, once again using heat to cure it quickly. A little blending followed with resin and micro, followed (after a further cure) by sanding to shape. And just like that—we had a blister to accommodate the exhaust!

I always tell people that I have a love/hate relationship with fiberglass—I love what I can do with it, but hate the mess. This was a quick project, executed from experience without plans, and it only took about six hours from start to finish. Don’t be afraid to make things fit—and do it before your painter lays down his pretty colors!

Paul Dye
Paul Dyehttps://ironflight.com
Paul Dye retired as a Lead Flight Director for NASA’s Human Space Flight program, with 50 years of aerospace experience on everything from Cubs to the Space Shuttle. An avid homebuilder, he began flying and working on airplanes as a teen and has experience with a wide range of construction techniques and materials. He flies an RV-8 and SubSonex jet that he built, an RV-3 that he built with his pilot wife, as well as a Dream Tundra and an electric Xenos motorglider they completed. Currently, they are building an F1 Rocket. A commercially licensed pilot, he has logged over 6000 hours in many different types of aircraft and is an A&P, FAA DAR, EAA Tech Counselor and Flight Advisor; he was formerly a member of the Homebuilder’s Council and is now on the EAA Safety Committee. He is also a member of SETP and consults on flight testing projects.

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rpstrong
rpstrong
20 days ago

+1 for the Turbo-Encabulator reference.