Adjustable Wing Support

A simple solution for supporting wings during installation and removal.

When removing or installing wings, it’s helpful to have a support at the wingtip. This crude but effective stand was built from two 2x4s, two 2x6s, some scrap plywood, and two old pillows.

I left the 2×4 verticals and 2×6 upper crossbar in their full 8-foot lengths; the lower crossbar is slightly shorter to allow the upper to overhang to make room for the clamp bolt. The dimensions aren’t critical and can be altered based on what’s available and the size of your airplane. The plywood gussets were whatever I had lying around and were screwed and glued to the verticals. I would suggest not using scrap T1-11 siding as I did for the gussets as it tends to crack along the grooves. To make it more durable, you could add short 2x4s along the bottom of the wide gussets.

Installing the wings on a Rose Parrakeet. The landing wires are still loose; when the crossbar is lowered the wingtips will drop slightly and the wires will take the load.

The crossbar is not permanently fastened to the verticals. Cut the slots with a circular saw, exactly as wide as the 2×4 verticals. This is nominally 1 1/2 inches, but get it as close as you can for maximum holding power; it should be a snug fit. Go about an inch past the verticals on the inner end, which can be finished with a jigsaw or hole saw. The 3/8×6-inch clamping bolts have fender and flat washers under the head to avoid crushing the wood, and tee nuts (not visible in the photo) on the other side so you only need one wrench to tighten it.

The ends of the upper crossbar clamp to the verticals for secure support and easy adjustability.

I don’t know exactly how strong it is, but I was able to hang from the crossbar and bounce up and down without it slipping (I weigh 150 pounds, more than any small airplane wing).

To use, slide the stand under the wing and raise the crossbar until it’s supporting the wing, then tighten the clamp bolts. Pillows lashed to the crossbar protect the wing and let it move slightly as bolt holes are lined up. Small adjustments are easy to make and the crossbar doesn’t need to be horizontal; it can be adjusted to match the angle of an airplane in three-point attitude if the clamp slots are made long enough.

Dana Hague
Dana Hague
Dana soloed at 16 and has been messing around with the low and slow side of aviation ever since. An aerospace engineer by education and mechanical engineer by trade, he’s been taking things apart almost since birth and usually manages to put them back together again, though not always the same way. He’s owned and tinkered with a variety of homebuilts over the years and currently flies a homebuilt Rose Parrakeet.

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Tom Simko
Tom Simko
18 days ago

I use a home made jackstand, originally meant for use when hanging drywall, similar to new types made for the same purpose. It’s not only adjustable in height, but angle. I haven’t used it for drywall in decades, just for aircraft wings!

Voyager
Voyager
17 days ago

I was planning to make something like that also, but then did a search at Harbor Freight and found their 2 ton under hoist safety stand for $90. It was going to cost me almost that much for the materials to build a stand and I wouldn’t have the screw thread precise adjustability of the HF stand. I bought two of them and then took two 5” 2x4s and placed them wide side across the metal jack saddles and then attached them with large hose clamps. I consider drilling holes in the saddles to bolt them, but they were plenty secure with the two hose clamps with the only wobble being the slop in the saddles itself. I then covered the 2x4s with old carpet. I used one under each end of the wing and it made my first wing attachment very easy. I could precisely adjust the height to align the bolts in the fuselage and then the struts. And now I have two decent stands I can use for other purposes.

I haven’t been a big fan of most things Harbor Freight, but these stands are surprisingly well made and even have ball bearings under the screw jack. I am not sure I would trust them with 2 tons as the hardware was pretty low grade stuff, metric 4.6 or 4.8, but the rest of the steel was robust and welds surprisingly good.

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